As I anticipated, my last day in Israel was the real climax. We did three things of note (and several other things not of note): the ruins of Qumran, Masada, and the Dead Sea itself.
I was disappointed with how our tour dealt with Qumran. At the visitors’ center they now have a rather ridiculous little film to introduce the site, but it consists almost entirely of a dramatization, in which an imaginary member of the Essene community describes his experience in the community; much of the description involves a “human interest” element, suggesting that John the Baptist may have been connected with the sect. There is little in the film about the ancient evidence for the Essenes, and almost nothing about the modern discovery of the scrolls themselves, what they contain, why they’re significant, or the substantial debates surrounding the character of the ruins of Qumran (is it the Essenes’ community? A Roman villa? A fort? What are the arguments?) and surrounding the relationship of the scrolls to it (what ties them to the ruins? etc.). The film didn’t discuss at *all* what the scrolls actually were and how they have advanced our knowledge of early Judaism and the birth of Christianity. Very disappointing indeed. And our tour guide, I’m sorry to say, didn’t spend much time in the ruins to talk about the significance of the site and the controversial aspects of it (e.g., the cemetery, which included some female remains), and so on.
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Thank you so much for keeping us updated. You and Rick Steves (PBS travel show) are there at the same time. Can’t wait to see his programs on his trip. My husband’s fav thing on Masada was that huge cistern. Such an awesome place. The history of it is so overwhelming. I agree about that film they show at Qumran. When we were at the dead sea, we stayed in a hotel that had a spa in the entire basement floor. They had about 4 separate pools. One pool piped in dead sea water, filtered, and you could float away and not worry about getting your little tootsies dirty. Awesome. Thanks again for sharing.
I like the saying: “Lord Jesus, save us from your followers.” Was there a gift shop at Qumran? Also, don’t float in the Dead Sea if you have any cuts or abrasions on your skin….it stings. Welcome home.
Gift shops everywhere!
Can you write a post on how the Qumran Scrolls advance our understanding of the birth of Christianity?
Good idea! It would take a book, but I’ll try to post something on it.
So glad your trip was satisfying!
Isn’t Ein Feste Burg a (very loose) paraphrase of Psalm 46? I can think of more offensive Christian hymns…
Yeah, good point. But they were singing it because they were coming down from a Feste Berg with strong Jewish nationalistic connections; the hymn itself is fine for the occasion, if one sticks to the first verse. But the problem is what it’s really about. Here are the first two verses. (See what I mean?)
A mighty fortress is our God, a bulwark never failing;
Our helper He, amid the flood of mortal ills prevailing:
For still our ancient foe doth seek to work us woe;
His craft and power are great, and, armed with cruel hate,
On earth is not his equal.
Did we in our own strength confide, our striving would be losing;
Were not the right Man on our side, the Man of God’s own choosing:
Dost ask who that may be? Christ Jesus, it is He;
Lord Sabaoth, His Name, from age to age the same,
And He must win the battle.
נְסִיעָה טוֹבָה
Sounds like quite the trip! I hope you’re not too worn out out from the flight back. I have a few questions. By any chance, would you be willing to share your reflections on the death of Geza Vermes? What did you think of the work of this fellow Jesus scholar?
Also, related to the work of Dr. Vermes (in a way), as I’m sure you know, in the gospel of Matthew, Jesus refers to non jews as dogs (Matthew 15:26). Do you think this statement most likely goes back to the historical jesus? Do you think it’s likely Jesus said such a thing….or something very similar to it?
Sorry for the random questions.
Yes, it was very sad to hear about Geza Vermes’s death. He was absolutely the real thing, one of the top scholars in the field anywhere in the world. Brilliant and learned. And a very nice man to boot. I had dinner with him two years ago when he was visiting Chapel Hill, and was struck by his humane and kind bearing.
The dogs passage: I really don’t know. But it doesn’t seem implausible to me that this is something Jesus himself would have said, as a good Palestinian Jew who probably never had much contact with outsiders.
Concerning the dogs saying not being implausible, that’s exactly what I was thinking. Great minds think alike! 🙂
Thank you *very* much for taking the time to share so much of your trip. I truly enjoyed it!
Smart to go to Masada early. I went to DS and En Gedi (across the street!), but missed the 3pm closing at Masada. The park was a beautiful walk though.
Boy, what I wouldn’t give to tour the “Holy Land” with on objective expert such as you, Professor! Have you been approached by anyone to lead an educational tour there?
As a matter of fact … no! 🙂
If you ever lead a group open to us in the next five years or so and the trip is under $5000, I’m in!
Bart,
Glad to hear you had such a good time in Israel. I love being there, myself,
but hate the time required to get there. Coming back is not much better.
Last year they were shooting rockets nearby and everybody was leaving like
tourists on a sinking oceanliner.
The link below will give you a feel for Bob Eisenman. He’s really an
exceptional guy, well worth reading despite the cumbersome style — someone
truly original among academics and Bible scholars. Let me know what you
think.
Don
http://blogs.jpost.com/content/scrolls-james-box-and-gospel-judas-1
p.s. Did you know there’s actually a group of Essenes living in Oregon?
Bob’s visited them and there’s a youtube video of a lecture he delivered
some years ago.
Too bad about Qumran. I thought the idea that John the B was an Essene had pretty much been discarded. Who manages the site? The Israeli government or is it in private hands?
I’m sure it’s government funded.
Was it worth getting sick? I would do it again knowing that I would get really sick..
Hope your feeling better.
Absolutely worth it.
Dear Ehrman,
If you’ll excuse me, I’d like to ask you something I’ve always wondered about 1st century Judaism. At the beginning of the Gospel of John, the Levites come to speak with John the Baptist. John the Baptist speaks openly at the beginning of the speech, saying that he is not the Messiah. Then a dialogue takes place which I find interesting:
(And they asked him, “What then? Art thou Elijah?” And he said, “I am not.” “Art thou that Prophet?” And he answered, “No.”)(21st KJV)
I’ve always found this dialogue interesting. As far as I can understand from here, Jews are waiting for 3 people in 1st century Judaism.
1-) Elijah 2-) Messiah 3-) The Prophet
As far as I can see, the Jews of the 1st century were expecting a important person apart from the Messiah. They were expecting a prophet. Perhaps the author or authors of the Gospel of John made a literature. I do not know. But it sure is interesting.
Dear Ehrman, could you please share your opinion on this matter?
Kind regards.
There were expectatpions that Elijah would return before the end, based on the teaching of Malachi 3; and Moses had predicted that another prophet like him would appear in Deut. 18. So that’s where John is getting the idea. How many Jews were *actually* expecting any such thing is another question. (And yes, I do not think John’s account is a historical report about what people really said to John the Baptist; it is a Christianization of the tradition)